4 Mar
You must be mad! This was the response we got from most people when we said we were taking a weeks leave to head up to Scotland in the middle of February in one of the coldest winters we’ve had for a long time. Mind you, we’re getting used to that response in describing this whole venture! Yep, we respond and off we drive for a week of winter mountaineering with Everest summiteer Di Gilbert.
We weren’t really sure what to expect having never done anything like this before, however, we had images of being frozen solid and struggling to keep up with Di for the entire duration and we were a bit worried that out fitness may let us down in these early stages. However, we were also excited about getting to use all our shiny new gear, especially our crampons which we had never used before (and until we got started even knew how to put on!).
On arriving in Aviemore it soon became apparent that our guide was well known by the locals and it seems a bit of a character! We were kindly informed that a couple of days previous, Di had taken a walk off a cornice resulting in a 200ft fall which she later informed us proved to her that self arrest techniques really do work! Hmm, I’m sure it gave her unsuspecting clients a memorable trip! This did bring home that even the best have accidents and reminded us a bit about the seriousness of getting involved in mountaineering – yep, made me think twice for about 2 seconds! Then back to it!
Day One – We spent the first day in near white out conditions in the Cairngorms getting used to our equipment and learning self arrest techniques which we hope we’ll never need to use for real – but as Di proved, may save our lives one day. We had lots of fun practicing these skills and actually got through the day without any misplaced ice axe incidents which was good! We also tried out a number of snow holes kindly built by some other groups who had spent a night in the hills. We finished the day by bagging our first ever Munro in summiting Cairngorm. Not a bad start to the week and no injuries so far!
Day 2 – Spent today in the corries climbing the central left hand gully of Coire an t’Sneachda. I’d love to be-able to describe the beautiful views and scenery to you, but in fact we could have been anywhere as we couldn’t see a thing! However, it was a good choice for developing our mountaineering techniques as it required short roping and climbing using two tools, axe and hammer. We also used some of the techniques we’d learnt on our climbing course in North Wales and found that placing equipment is considerably harder in the snow and ice! A good day for building on our previous skills acquired. No Munro’s today though!
Day 3 – We decided to follow the weather today and headed into beautiful sunshine! In Scotland! In the winter! It’s true! I was amazed to find alpine conditions in Scotland. To be honest, I didn’t realise it could be so sunny in Scotland – apparently it’s the country’s best kept secret! Anyway, we started the day with a pleasant walk in through the forest with a nice gradual incline. On reaching the snow line we could clearly see the east ridge of Beinn a chaorainn, the route we would be taking. I felt excited and fortunate to be out in the sunshine in the peaceful mountains away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. This is why we’re doing it! We roped up again and headed off up the ridge. I was slightly annoyed to find I suffered a little exposure without the dense fog to hide the drops and cornices! However, it soon passed and the views at the top were certainly worth every knee tremble and leg wobble! Munro number two – come on!
Day 4 – Having experienced the better weather we decided to continue to follow the weather and made the journey to Glencoe. We were going to spend the night in the SMC’s Lagangarbh hut so that we could spend two long days in these mountains. Di pointed out the curved ridge on the Buachaille Etive Mor and explained the route we were going to take. Both the ascent and descent looked pretty hardcore but we felt motivated and the weather conditions were good. This was the hardest day of the week and certainly the most technical. We found that there was a lot of climbing involved and the terrain was a mixture of ice, snow and rock as opposed to simply snow that we had encountered on previous days. At one point there was a steep section of rock covered in ice which we watched Di struggle up – this was always of concern – if she was having problems, how on earth were we going to get up there?! But get up there we did. However, I think I had the grace and agility of an elephant and it took me a while to get to grips with the different ways of using an ice axe. Due to my unorthodox techniques and pure desperation not to take a tumble, my lovely expensive new pants became a casualty as I made the classic rookie error of slicing through the hems with my crampons! Not once, not twice, but three times! But at least it was only the trousers and not my leg! It was a long and tiring day – and we didn’t even get time to stop for any lunch! So once we fnally summitted munro number three, we enjoyed a quick stuff of the face before making our way down. On arrival back at the hut Di informed us that it had been an avalanche black spot and indeed a week later two climbers lost their lives in an avalanche on the same climb. This shows how dangerous it can be and how quickly conditions can change in the mountains.
Day 5 – Our last day up in Scotland and we climbed the famous Aonach Eagach Traverse. This is the narrowest ridge on the British mainland and is a spectacular traverse linking the Munro’s of Meall Dearg and Sgorr nam Fiannaidh. Yep, two Munro’s for our final day! Again, the weather was fantastic and the views spectacular. There were a number of very exposed places and a leap of faith at one stage where Stevie experienced his first leg wobble moment of the week! The traverse involved a lot of ups and down’s as we tackled the various pinnacles along the way. These are the mountains you imagine with proper pointy tops with little standing space. I have to admit, there were a few spots where I tried to avoid thinking about the drops and what would happen if one of us slipped! We finally made it to the summit of just as the sun was starting to set which provided the perfect backdrop for our last few photo’s. Little did we know that the worst walk off yet was awaiting us! It was steep, it was icy, then scree and then steep slippy grass. Our knees did not thank us for it and I don’t think they would have help out much longer! But as we got in the car we felt exhausted but content. A huge thank you to Di – it was an excellant week and we learnt loads and are now raring to go on to the next stage – Mont Blanc.
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[...] and exciting foray into lead climbing in winter conditions. Check out our blog – http://patchexpedition.com/blog/team-extreme-tackle-the-scottish-hills/ Fighting at the top of Munro number [...]
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